Over 200 prominent fashion models, including Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Beverly Johnson, have penned an open letter to New York Governor Kathy Hochul, urging her to sign the Fashion Workers Act into law. The bill, which was passed by the New York assembly and Senate in June, aims to provide vital protections against sexual harassment, discrimination, and the misuse of artificial intelligence (AI) in the fashion industry. However, the legislation cannot become law until Hochul signs it by December 24.
The letter emphasizes the urgent need for labor protections to ensure safe, equitable working conditions in the fashion industry. "Each one of us has a story that demonstrates how New York is failing the faces of one of its most culturally vibrant, economically significant industries in the world," the models stated. The call for the bill comes after years of advocacy led by the Model Alliance, an organization dedicated to advancing the labor rights of models in the U.S.
The Fashion Workers Act, introduced in 2022, seeks to address the power imbalances that often exist between models and agencies. Many models, particularly young women starting their careers, lack transparency regarding their earnings and the financial aspects of their contracts. This vulnerability is further compounded for international models who may rely on their agencies for visa sponsorship and housing.
Sara Ziff, executive director of the Model Alliance, expressed hope that Governor Hochul, as the first female Democratic governor of New York, would stand in solidarity with the predominantly female and often immigrant workforce. Ziff emphasized that any objections from modeling agencies about the law’s impact on their operations would only highlight the deeper issues within the industry. “If they are worried that they can’t operate while having to show models their own contracts and be transparent about their finances, then, frankly, they have a broken business model,” Ziff said.
A key provision of the bill addresses the increasing use of AI in the industry. The provision mirrors concerns voiced by Hollywood workers during last year’s strike, particularly regarding the digital manipulation of a model’s likeness. The bill requires that creating, altering, or replicating a model’s image using AI must be accompanied by clear written consent. Unlike Hollywood unions that secured compensation and consent agreements for the use of AI, models remain largely unprotected, as they are often classified as independent contractors, which prevents them from unionizing under U.S. federal law.
Ziff highlighted that the Fashion Workers Act is essential because it provides protections outside the traditional union framework. "What we are asking for is so basic – it’s that creating, altering, or manipulating a model’s digital replica using AI would require clear written consent," she said. The bill seeks to address the growing concerns about AI exploitation, ensuring that models have control over their own image and likeness.
The Fashion Workers Act represents a pivotal moment in the fight for labor rights in the fashion industry, and advocates are hopeful that Governor Hochul will take the necessary step to protect the thousands of individuals who contribute to one of the world’s most influential industries.
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