London’s Somerset House to Open Restored Salt Stair with New Exhibition on Colonial Taxation

 

A hidden symbol of Britain’s imperial past will be unveiled to the public in February at Somerset House, London, with the opening of the newly restored Salt Stair. This once-hidden staircase, located within the historic building, will now serve as the centerpiece for an exhibition exploring the significant role of the Salt Office, which was responsible for collecting colonial taxes on salt. The Salt Stair, integral to the operation of the Salt Office, will now be accessible as part of an exhibition that delves into the complex history of salt taxation, particularly its impact on India during British colonial rule.

Cliff Lauson, the exhibitions director at Somerset House, highlighted the importance of presenting this history: “It is a good way to show the entangled history of the building and the nation.” Artists Himali Singh Soin and David Soin Tappeser, who make up the duo Hylozoic/Desires, will curate the exhibition "Salt Cosmologies," which will include sound installations and art pieces that examine the historical and contemporary significance of salt. The exhibition will also focus on the global impact of colonial salt taxes, especially in India, where Mahatma Gandhi’s famous 1930 salt march became a pivotal moment in the fight for independence.

The Salt Stair is part of a larger renovation project at Somerset House, which has been home to various cultural institutions over the centuries, from the Royal Academy of Arts to the Courtauld Gallery. The building itself has witnessed centuries of conflict over ownership, torn between its role as a governmental hub collecting taxes and its current role as a cultural center. The Salt Office, responsible for managing salt production and taxation in Britain’s colonies, operated from Somerset House in the late 1700s and oversaw salt production in Cheshire, northeast England, and various overseas territories. The office’s operations were integral to the British Empire’s economic dominance, especially in regions like India and the Caribbean.

Alongside the Salt Stair, other historic staircases, such as the Stamp Stair and the famous Nelson Stair, will continue to draw attention. The Salt Stair’s opening marks a significant moment in Somerset House’s transformation from a former tax office into a vibrant cultural space. Jonathan Reekie, director of Somerset House, reflected on this evolution, noting, “It’s been tremendous bringing it back into public life over the last 25 years,” as the building has increasingly become a hub for artists, innovators, and cultural organizations.

The exhibition will also feature a monumental artwork in Somerset House’s courtyard, representing the controversial legacy of the Great Salt Hedge, a 2,500-mile barrier built by the British East India Company to prevent salt smuggling. The Salt Office was integral to this system, overseeing the movement of salt not just in Britain, but in its colonies, and generating substantial wealth through taxation.

The restoration of the Salt Stair comes after a fire last August that ravaged part of Somerset House’s roof but caused limited damage. The building’s resilience, however, has been symbolic of its survival through centuries of change, including wartime bombings during the Blitz.

As Somerset House continues to embrace its new role as a cultural institution, the exhibition will offer a powerful reminder of the colonial history embedded within its walls and the enduring influence of past economic systems on present-day culture and society.